Saturday, December 14, 2019

Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar Madhya Pradesh


We came to Maheahwar  at 7 pm and took rest in Room. Next day early morning we went to Narmadha Ghat Maheshwar.It is A temple town on the bank of Narmada River, Maheshwar is situated in Khargone district of Madhya Pradesh. 

It is believed that Lord Shiva is worshiped where the Narmada flows because he is the only idol of inner peace to calm her. It’s a small riverside town and has an amazing beautiful heritage of great Maratha queen Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar and she was the queen of Malwa region.
 
In early morning we went to Narmada Ghat to take a holy bath. The view of the river from this Ghat is breath-taking. 
 
Since it flows through the entire state, Narmada holds an inseparable position in the hearts of the people of Madhya Pradesh. The ghats of Maheshwar with the backdrop of majestic Ahilya fort has to be one of the most scenic waterfront of India. Ahilya fort looks amazing.
 
In the late eighteenth century, Maheshwar served as the capital of the great Maratha queen Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar. She embellished the city with many buildings and public works, and it is home to her palace, as well as numerous temples, a fort, and riverfront Ghats. 
 
The Rajwada, Ahilya Fort, Shiv Temple and the Ghats are all part of one big complex. Our visit began at the Rajwada. The Rajwada, this is where Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar stayed, a simple affair.





































As you enter the premise, you are confronted with a nicely sculpted statue of Maharani Ahilya Bai Holkar. A large gate leads the way to the Ghats from where you can view the exteriors of the fort and also visit the Shiva Temple.
 
A courtyard with greenery in the middle and few rooms above just like those old style houses with tiled roofs welcomed me. One side is the durbar hall which is the ministerial affairs proceedings corner, it has diwans and a seat for Devi Ahilyabai, which I cannot even call as a throne. On the other side are some of the artifacts and paintings. Photography is strictly prohibited inside her home, however cheeky fellows were taking pics. 

Outside there are life-size images of an elephant, a horse, and a bull. The bull represents the Shiva’s vehicle, Horse the Kuldevta of Holkars and Elephant a sign of royalty. Simplicity is the keyword at Ahilya Bai’s Rajwada or palace.
The simplicity of the queen can be further seen at her so-called durbar hall, where she conducted the affairs of the state and held audiences with the average person. Located on the verandah in her wing of the palace, it is nothing but a white mattress covering the floor with a low, wooden throne at one end of it. These days, a white marble image of the queen can be seen on the throne.

Shivalinga Puja at Ahilya Fort
 
The Lingarchan puja conducted in the courtyard at 8.30 a.m. is a practice initiated by Ahilyabai Holkar in 1766 for the well-being of her subjects. River mud from the Narmada is ritually shaped into a thousand miniature Shiva lingas on a wooden board, before being immersed back in the waters

It was a unique ritual that was put in place by Rani Ahilya Bai herself and that continues till date – unbroken or Akhand as we say in India. In her days, 108 Brahmins used to create 125,000 miniature Shivalingas every day from black earth, worship them and then offer them to Narmada River. Today, 11 Brahmins create about 15,000 Shivalingas every day, worship them and then offer them to Narmada waters. Every day between 8-10 AM you can witness this Puja.I was totally fascinated by it. 
 
Adjacent is another small museum kinds which include her pooja room and a small golden swing, the swing must have essentially been used to place God figurines during festivals or in her pooja room. And other simple items of yesteryears.
 
The steps leading to this cenotaph complex has unique carvings like below. This one below, though it looks like link of chains, it was written that it is the intertwined body of snake and that it is one continuous thing.
 
A double storeyed gateway, directly opposite the main entrance to the Rajwada leads to a flight of steps leading down to a cluster of buildings on the banks of the Narmada. It is from this gateway that you get your first glimpse of this holy river, which at this point is over a mile wide!
 
At the foot of the flight of stairs, to the right is another gateway, which opens into a compound at the centre of which lies the Chhatri (mausoleum) of Vitoji Rao Holkar. He was the younger brother of king Yashwant Rao Holkar (1798-1811). Built on a high plinth and sporting two bulbous domes, this chhatri is known for its exquisite carvings, especially that of a row of caparisoned elephants on its side.

 Facing the entrance to the Chhatri of Vitoji is a gateway to yet another enclosure which houses the Ahilyeshwar Shivalaya. Although it sounds like a Shiva temple, and is definitely built like one, it is actually the chhatri of Ahilya Bai Holkar. Built by the queen’s daughter Krishna Bai, this towering structure combines the north Indian nagara style of temple architecture with the Maratha style.
 
From the enclosure that houses the two chhatris, another gateway leads to yet another flight of stairs that forms the main ghat of Maheshwar. Almost two kms of the riverfront of Maheshwar has been paved in stone to give rise to a series of ghats.
 
 Besides, Maheshwar is known for its spiritual importance, which is mentioned as Mahishmati in the famous Hindu epics Ramayana and Mahabharata. In addition to all these, Maheshwar is popular for making unique and delicate cotton and silk blend handloom saris. It is recognized for its huge production of Maheshwari sarees and this makes this popular tourist destination a perfect paradise for shopaholics.
 
Walking out of the Ahilyeshwar temple door leads to a flight of steps leading to the Narmada Ghat. It is the pattern with which these steps are made that makes this fort unique, picturesque and a popular movie location spot. This is also one of the gates to the fort called Paani Darwaza as the entrance is from the Narmada river. 


The Narmada ghat that is immediately outside the Ahilya fort is popularly called as the Ahilya ghat. This is like the happening ghat with vendors selling stuff and boats plying to take you for a ride around the river. There are also normal row boats that seems to be taking people between the banks of the river.



A divine and serene place to sit by yourself and feel the tranquility around. Situated on the banks of river Narmada, Maheshwar appeals to both, the pilgrim as well as the tourist in you. The town possesses a treasure trove of beautiful temples that calm the soul, alongside man-made creations that please the eyes. . The daily chores along the ghats add to the flavor of the place. Both Sunrise and Sunset can be seen from the ghats, which is really scenic.
 
Walking down the stairs, I caught a glimpse of the Narmada between the Fort Walls and the imposing Sahastrarjun Temple. on the steps of the ghat, the cool winds ruffling my hair got me energized again. 
 

Whether it was the elegance of the Maratha structure, or the aura of the bygone era, 
 
I settled slowly along the ghats watching the undulating waves as they rose upward and then slowly dissolved away. 



The golden hues spreading on the river and it looks like gold is flowing down, egrets and lapwings flying above you, tiny sparrows trying to peck the corn left over by kids it is just an awesome experience to sit and watch the simple things.When my son was busy in clicking Pics and My hubby was chatting withhis bro. I don’t even know how much time I spent there doing absolutely nothing but soaking in the feel of this quaint town and occasionally glancing the half drowned temple in Narmada.

No comments: