Sunday, November 27, 2022

Gangaikonda Cholapuram Temple-Jayankondam

After visiting Pichavaram lake. we straightly went to Gangaikonda Cholapuram Templeby 3.30 pm and waited in the garden.While watch the surroundings,

The towering 180 feet tall Vimana seem to touch the sky announcing its existence in this otherwise dead capital. A majestic Nandi obstruct our gaze. A few gardeners are tending to the lawn while we soak in the ambience. Various forms of Shiva captured in different moods stand out in the artistic mosaic. A giant lion shaped sculpture called Simhakinar in the form of the Chola emblem stares at you.

Rajendra Chola Gangaikonda Cholapuram

Rajendra I, according to Tamil tradition, thereafter assumed the name of Gangaikonda Cholan, meaning the one who conquered the Ganges. He established Gangaikonda Cholapuram as his capital from the medieval Chola capital of Thanjavur, which would go on to become the capital for the next 250 years.

 

Ariyalur is best known for the Gangaikondacholisvarar temple in Gangaikondacholapuram, the biggest temple constructed during the reign of Rajendra–I in Ariyalur region. Following the conquest of the Gangetic plains in A.D. 1023 Rajendra–I built a great city called Gangaikondacholapauram and a Siva temple Gangaikondacholisvarar and a lake Chola Gangam in commemoration of his victory. The place, the temple and the lake (Chola Gangam) are the living embodiments of the heroism of the Tamils who unfurled the Chola‘s Tiger flag on the banks of the River Ganges. He also shifted his capital from Thanjavur to this newly built town. From his period to the end of the Chola family rule in A.D.1279 this city was the capital for the Chola Empire for a period of 256 years. The gigantic stone temple which he built in this place is rich repository of beautiful sculptures of middle Chola period. This city is celebrated in the literature of Muvar ula of Ottakuttar and Kalingattuparani of Jayankondar.

 

This temple is a living history of the Cholas in stone from the period of Rajendra-I and a beautiful gallery of Chola art and architecture. Many sculptures brought from Andhra, Karnataka and Bengal as war trophies are also preserved in the temple and in the nearby villages. Chandesura Anugraha Murthy and Sarasvathy are the most beautiful sculptures of the temple.

At present it is under the control of ASI and the HR&CE and recently the UNESCO declared the temple as one of the world heritage monument.

 

Ancient stone sculpture in the Shiva Temple in Gangaikonda Cholapuram, Tamil Nadu,India.The temple is one of the UNESCO world heritage sites.

Experts say this sculpture shows Rajendra Chola being crowned by Lord Shiva, instead of his father Raja Raja Cholan.

Gangaikonda Cholapuram temple is located at Ariyalur District in Tamil Nadu. The shrine is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The main sanctum sanctorum at the Gangaikonda Cholapuram Temple consists of huge Shivling. The height of the Shivling is thirteen feet (3.90 meters). It is believed to be the biggest in all the Shiva temples in South India. Shiva is worshipped here as Gangaikondacholishwara.

The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and he is worshipped here in the form of a lingam which is 18 feet wide and 13 feet tall. It is considered to be one of the largest lingams constructed in the country. The idol of the ‘Nandi’ is placed in such a way here that it reflects light into the sanctum. Interestingly, the flooring of the sanctum is made up of ‘Chandrakanta’ stone slabs which remain cool during the summer and warm during the winter months.

 

The temple itself is built along grand lines and rests on a raised platform. It has a courtyard that is 341 feet in height and 100 feet in width. The Gangaikonda Cholapuram temple has a concave outline divided into eight zones; this was deliberately done to make it appear smaller than the original temple in Thanjavur. The temple is also famous for its bronze sculptures, ancient inscriptions and paintings.

Elegant Vimana at Gangaikonda Cholapuram

The vimana of the Brihadeeswarar temple at Gangaikondacholapuram rises to a height of 182 feet (55 m) and is shorter than the Thanjavur tower but has a larger plinth. It is often described as the feminine counterpart of the Thanjavur temple.

 

Along with the Airavatesvara temple at Darasuram, the above-mentioned three temples form part of the Great Living Chola Temples that are part of the World Heritage Sites under UNESCO. All three temples share the same grandeur and marvellous architectural styles practised during the Chola dynastic rule. The Gangaikonda Cholapuram temple is located near the Kollidam River and within the fertile Cauvery River delta.

However, the form of this temple is different from that of the Big Temple at Thanjavur.

 

The main tower here at Gangaikondacholapuram is square at the bottom, octagonal in the middle, and circular at the top, thus simulating the form of the Shiva lingam.

The main deity of Gangaikondacholapuram is Brihadeeswarar in the form of a Shiva Lingam of 13.5 m tall. In local dialect and Tamizh, the deity of Lord Shiva is referred to as ‘Bragadeeswarar’ or ‘Brihadeeswarar’ meaning great Lord or Lord of the World. His consort is known as Periya Nayaki.


 

It is said that there is a rare gemstone of Chandrakantha/Moonstone that has been installed beneath the Shiva lingam at Gangaikondacholapuram temple. The Sanskrit name for moonstone is Chandrakantha mani (Chandra is one of the names for the moon, Kantha means light, and Mani means jewel).

What is Moonstone?

In India, from time immemorial, moonstone or the Chandrakanta mani has been regarded as sacred.It’s said that Chandrakantha mani grows under the influence of the moon and absorbs its magical powers.  Indian tradition holds, that the stone itself symbolizes the third eye of Shiva.

The gem supposedly keeps the place cool in summers and warm in winters. And indeed, the interiors of the Gangai Konda Cholapuram temple were very cool when compared to the outside. This compels one to believe the moonstone theory!

Another interesting lore is of Chandrakantha mani being representative of feminine energy and Shiva lingam at Gangaikondacholapuram temple is supposed to be feminine in nature. I guess that explains the feminine hints in the architecture too. The Sanctum Sanctorum that always remains cool

Steps from the Northern Side

 

A specialty of both the Brihadeeswara temples (Thanjavur and Gangaikondacholapuram) is the dwarapalaka sculptures. On keen observation, you can find a giant snake syphoning a whole elephant alive, while the snake itself is being caught and controlled by the dwarapalaka’s foot.

 

 at his supposedly portrays the importance of the gatekeepers and the influence they wielded through their huge built, and how they could have gone to any extent to protect the Lord who resides inside the temple.


A whole city was believed to have been built around the temple, but as of today, all that remains standing is the temple itself surrounded by ruins of the two-century-old city. There is evidence of there once having been ‘Gopurams’ or gateways into the temple, but all that remains now are the two images of ‘Dwarapala’ or guardians. After Pattadakal, this is believed to be the second World Heritage Site that is so abandoned amidst ruins, with not even basic food facilities in sight.

 

His empire included the whole of southern India to the river Thungabathra in the north. For administrative and strategic purposes he built another capital and named it Gangaikondacholapuram. 

 

The Gangaikondacholapuram temple he constructed consists of 3 stories and was surrounded by a huge fort-like wall, the outer wall largely destroyed during the English rule (1896) to reuse the building material (granite rocks) for constructing the Lower Anicut the dam built across river Kollidam. He built around 10 temples at various places.

 

 

 

Simhakeni(Lion-well) in Gangaikondacholapuram temple

Besides the regular shrines and sub shrines in this temple, there is an entrance inviting us with a lion head, upon entering, you go down the stairs, ending up in a pond, which was the swimming pool of the then Queen and Princess. But for those who look from the lion’s mouth, the pond is invisible. It also has a lion well where waters from the Ganga was poured.This excellent structure is called as Simhakeni(Lion-well). At present it was locked.

That aside, the temple is still a functional one with rituals being conducted four times a day.  You can visit this mystical temple in Gangaikonda Cholapuram as its well connected by highways, railways with the nearest airport being in Trichy.

However, unlike other great Chola capital of Thanjavur the grandeur of Gangaikondacholapuram did not survive for long. The city was destroyed by the Pandyas in the early 13th century to avenge the earlier Chola invasions. The last Chola king Rajendra Chola III died fighting the Pandyas in 1279 CE and the Chola kingdom was finally extinguished. It later passed on to the Vijayanagara empire, Nawabs of Arcot and then the British.

I was actually trudging the paths in the great Chola Empire on which my ancestors once dwelled and worked, was indeed a goose-bump moment!

Thursday, November 17, 2022

Mystical Mangroves of Pichavaram

 

After visiting Chidambaram Temple We went to Pichavarum mangrove Forest.It is a must-visit tourist attraction in Chidambaram located only 16km away from the town .Unlike the beaches in India, the mangroves of Pichavaram are not overrun with tourists yet. Not many people have even heard of it, The name ‘Sunderbans’ in Bengal seem familiar, but Pichavaram, at second place doesn’t share the spotlight.

 

It is a nature’s paradise with mangroves spread over 1100 hectares providing undulated natural views. Lesser known fact is that the Pichavaram mangrove forest is one of the largest mangrove forests in the world! Covering about 1100 hectare of area, it is separated from the Bay of Bengal only by a sand bar.

 

Other than the flora, the mangroves attract migrant and local birds including snipes, cormorants, egrets, storks, herons, spoonbills, and pelicans. About 177 species of birds belonging to 15 orders and 41 families have been recorded here.

How to See It

The mangrove forest can be explored by row boat or motor boat. Motor boats are ideal for sizable groups, and you'll be able to go all the way to the beach through the mangroves in a couple of hours. However, these boats are too big to fit inside the narrow canals. If you're interested in venturing deep inside the jungle, you'll need to take a row boat. It's well worth it.

 

Motor boat costs Rs.1800 whether one single person or 8 max . Manual boat cost Rs400. We bought motor boat ride paying 1800 for five of us. Boat duration is 40 minutes but boatman asked extra 600 for taking ride to narrow lanes ,shooting spots; but everywhere same spot just mangrove trees and nice ride experience. Absolutely Worth it! You get to see some of the deep mangrove flora & fauna. Excellent location for a photo shoot . Boats are well equipped with safety jackets and foldable covers to protect from sunburns (these are normally folded back during narrow canal visits!)

 

The swinging and swaying of our boat left us exhilarating. The backwaters were alluring and we immersed in its beauty in less than a minute after the ride started.

What is so special about a mangrove?

A Mangrove is a small tree or shrub that grows along coastlines, taking root in salty sediments, often underwater. The word ‘mangrove’ may refer to the habitat as a whole or to the trees and shrubs in the mangrove swamp. Mangroves are flowering trees, belonging to the families Rhizophoraceae, Acanthaceae, Lythraceae, Combretaceae, and Arecaceae. This waterbody is 2800 acres vast expanse. The boatsman who came for us was a mind-blowing person named Sakthivel , he gave me the botanical scientific name of all those varieties!they are - Surappunnai(Rhizophora)Kandal(Avicennia),Vennkandal(AvicenniaMarina)Karungandal(Avicennia Officinalis).

 

 The Rhizophora varities are locally called Surappunnai and they filter the salt content in the water before intaking the water. This Rhizophora varieties reproduce by Viviparous reproduction. That is, the new roots grow from below the branches and they detach themselves from the parent only after they get pretty strong.

The Avicennia varities are locally called Kandal and they take in the salt water and gives out the salt through their leaves. Here reproduction happens by Aerial roots or Pneumatophores. The roots emerge from the soil and grow outwards to the air to absorb oxygen. The types of Avicennia here are Avicennia Marina (Venn kandal) and Avicennia Officinalis (Karungandal).

Mangrove forests stabilize the coastline, reducing erosion from storm surges, currents, waves, and tides. The intricate root system of mangroves also makes these forests attractive to fish and other organisms seeking food and shelter from predators. 

 

The dense tangle of roots allows the trees to handle the daily rise and fall of tides. Most mangroves get flooded at least twice per day. Mangroves improve the water quality by absorbing nutrients from runoff that might otherwise cause harmful algal blooms offshore.It has a vast expanse of water covered with mangrove forests. It is home to many aquatic bird species.

 

As you sail deep into the backwater, the first impression that you have is that you are lost in the middle of a sea with water all around. But as you sail further, the mangrove plant begins to appear. Soon you find the waterway becoming narrower with mangroves on both sides.The water here is not that deep or clear and the Mangroves may not be among the beautiful plants, yet it is an experience that you must relish.

 

Making our way through them is a beautiful experience. As we went deeper into the forests, we got amazed on seeing the fresh green shrubs hanging above the water, long sticks which appeared like the branches of the shrubs actually happens to be the roots! It was an amazing sight to see a number of rare birds fishing in the marshes while we rode past them.

 

They’re deathly still and soundless, and a bird, spooked by our presence, taking to flight. The canopy of twisted branches above our heads hangs so low that it doesn’t allow one to stand, yet the occasional stream of light on the water lets you look down and see the murky shore bed, below the boat.

 

The greenery is overwhelmingly soothing and the hum of the gentle wind passing through seems magnified, as do the rustle of the leaves at arms distance, around and above us. It’s as spooky as it is serene – I’ve never experienced anything like it! It has the mystique of a place that’s undiscovered, but you will find one of nature’s most fascinating environments.

 

On the way boat man showed the unique setting of the mangrove jungle has featured in a number of south Indian movies including Idayakanni (1975), Sooryan (2007), Dasavatharam (2008), and Thupparivalan (2017).

 

The channels through the mangroves get smaller, deeper, and you have to dovetail to keep the roots from dropping! You'll yell excitedly as the boat runs in calm, dark waters and roots like a tent over your head. At certain points, the roots are very thick and the plant is quite large, it's nearly like a wooden bar wall, sunlight is flowing in here, and the effect is magical!

Sometimes when the sun is weak, the path looks furious, as if it is close to you, as the boat cruises slowly in peace. You wonder if the boat will really navigate through the narrow turns.

This is how mesmerizingly beautiful it gets, you would want to do nothing else other than sit in that boat and go around the mangroves till the end of the day ! The experience turned out to be an awesome one. If you are a nature lover or an eco-tourist, then this destination must feature in your priority list.

PICHAVARAM BOATING TIMINGS

9:00AM to 04:00PM

PICHAVARAM BOAT HOUSE ADDRESS

Pitchavaram Boat House,

AATC Campus, Killai Post,

Chidambaram Taluk,

Cuddalore, Tamil Nadu - 608102