Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar Madhya Pradesh

We came to Maheahwar  at 7 pm and took rest in Room. Next day early morning we went to Narmadha Ghat Maheshwar.It is A temple town on the bank of Narmada River, Maheshwar is situated in Khargone district of Madhya Pradesh. 

It is believed that Lord Shiva is worshiped where the Narmada flows because he is the only idol of inner peace to calm her. It’s a small riverside town and has an amazing beautiful heritage of great Maratha queen Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar and she was the queen of Malwa region.

 

In early morning we went to Narmada Ghat to take a holy bath. The view of the river from this Ghat is breath-taking. 

 

Since it flows through the entire state, Narmada holds an inseparable position in the hearts of the people of Madhya Pradesh. The ghats of Maheshwar with the backdrop of majestic Ahilya fort has to be one of the most scenic waterfront of India. Ahilya fort looks amazing.

 

In the late eighteenth century, Maheshwar served as the capital of the great Maratha queen Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar. She embellished the city with many buildings and public works, and it is home to her palace, as well as numerous temples, a fort, and riverfront Ghats. 

 

The Rajwada, Ahilya Fort, Shiv Temple and the Ghats are all part of one big complex. Our visit began at the Rajwada. The Rajwada, this is where Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar stayed, a simple affair.

As you enter the premise, you are confronted with a nicely sculpted statue of Maharani Ahilya Bai Holkar. A large gate leads the way to the Ghats from where you can view the exteriors of the fort and also visit the Shiva Temple.

 

A courtyard with greenery in the middle and few rooms above just like those old style houses with tiled roofs welcomed me. One side is the durbar hall which is the ministerial affairs proceedings corner, it has diwans and a seat for Devi Ahilyabai, which I cannot even call as a throne. On the other side are some of the artifacts and paintings. Photography is strictly prohibited inside her home, however cheeky fellows were taking pics. 

Outside there are life-size images of an elephant, a horse, and a bull. The bull represents the Shiva’s vehicle, Horse the Kuldevta of Holkars and Elephant a sign of royalty. Simplicity is the keyword at Ahilya Bai’s Rajwada or palace.

The simplicity of the queen can be further seen at her so-called durbar hall, where she conducted the affairs of the state and held audiences with the average person. Located on the verandah in her wing of the palace, it is nothing but a white mattress covering the floor with a low, wooden throne at one end of it. These days, a white marble image of the queen can be seen on the throne.

Shivalinga Puja at Ahilya Fort

 

The Lingarchan puja conducted in the courtyard at 8.30 a.m. is a practice initiated by Ahilyabai Holkar in 1766 for the well-being of her subjects. River mud from the Narmada is ritually shaped into a thousand miniature Shiva lingas on a wooden board, before being immersed back in the waters

It was a unique ritual that was put in place by Rani Ahilya Bai herself and that continues till date – unbroken or Akhand as we say in India. In her days, 108 Brahmins used to create 125,000 miniature Shivalingas every day from black earth, worship them and then offer them to Narmada River. Today, 11 Brahmins create about 15,000 Shivalingas every day, worship them and then offer them to Narmada waters. Every day between 8-10 AM you can witness this Puja.I was totally fascinated by it. 

 

Adjacent is another small museum kinds which include her pooja room and a small golden swing, the swing must have essentially been used to place God figurines during festivals or in her pooja room. And other simple items of yesteryears.

 

The steps leading to this cenotaph complex has unique carvings like below. This one below, though it looks like link of chains, it was written that it is the intertwined body of snake and that it is one continuous thing.

 

A double storeyed gateway, directly opposite the main entrance to the Rajwada leads to a flight of steps leading down to a cluster of buildings on the banks of the Narmada. It is from this gateway that you get your first glimpse of this holy river, which at this point is over a mile wide!

 

At the foot of the flight of stairs, to the right is another gateway, which opens into a compound at the centre of which lies the Chhatri (mausoleum) of Vitoji Rao Holkar. He was the younger brother of king Yashwant Rao Holkar (1798-1811). Built on a high plinth and sporting two bulbous domes, this chhatri is known for its exquisite carvings, especially that of a row of caparisoned elephants on its side.

 Facing the entrance to the Chhatri of Vitoji is a gateway to yet another enclosure which houses the Ahilyeshwar Shivalaya. Although it sounds like a Shiva temple, and is definitely built like one, it is actually the chhatri of Ahilya Bai Holkar. Built by the queen’s daughter Krishna Bai, this towering structure combines the north Indian nagara style of temple architecture with the Maratha style.

 

From the enclosure that houses the two chhatris, another gateway leads to yet another flight of stairs that forms the main ghat of Maheshwar. Almost two kms of the riverfront of Maheshwar has been paved in stone to give rise to a series of ghats.

 

 Besides, Maheshwar is known for its spiritual importance, which is mentioned as Mahishmati in the famous Hindu epics Ramayana and Mahabharata. In addition to all these, Maheshwar is popular for making unique and delicate cotton and silk blend handloom saris. It is recognized for its huge production of Maheshwari sarees and this makes this popular tourist destination a perfect paradise for shopaholics.

 

Walking out of the Ahilyeshwar temple door leads to a flight of steps leading to the Narmada Ghat. It is the pattern with which these steps are made that makes this fort unique, picturesque and a popular movie location spot. This is also one of the gates to the fort called Paani Darwaza as the entrance is from the Narmada river. 

The Narmada ghat that is immediately outside the Ahilya fort is popularly called as the Ahilya ghat. This is like the happening ghat with vendors selling stuff and boats plying to take you for a ride around the river. There are also normal row boats that seems to be taking people between the banks of the river.

A divine and serene place to sit by yourself and feel the tranquility around. Situated on the banks of river Narmada, Maheshwar appeals to both, the pilgrim as well as the tourist in you. The town possesses a treasure trove of beautiful temples that calm the soul, alongside man-made creations that please the eyes. . The daily chores along the ghats add to the flavor of the place. Both Sunrise and Sunset can be seen from the ghats, which is really scenic.

 

Walking down the stairs, I caught a glimpse of the Narmada between the Fort Walls and the imposing Sahastrarjun Temple. on the steps of the ghat, the cool winds ruffling my hair got me energized again. 

 

Whether it was the elegance of the Maratha structure, or the aura of the bygone era, 

 

I settled slowly along the ghats watching the undulating waves as they rose upward and then slowly dissolved away. 

The golden hues spreading on the river and it looks like gold is flowing down, egrets and lapwings flying above you, tiny sparrows trying to peck the corn left over by kids it is just an awesome experience to sit and watch the simple things.When my son was busy in clicking Pics and My hubby was chatting withhis bro. I don’t even know how much time I spent there doing absolutely nothing but soaking in the feel of this quaint town and occasionally glancing the half drowned temple in Narmada.

Spritual Abode-Omkareshwar and Mamleshwar

Omkareshwar is a famous pilgrimage centre that that includes one of the 12 idolized Jyotirlinga shrines of Shiva. The name Omkareshwar means 'Lord of Omkaara', which is one of the Dwadasa Jyotirlinga shrines dedicated to lord Shiva in the form of a Jyotirlingam. It's a sacred island which is shaped like the Hindu symbols 'OM', drawing millions of travelers from all across the globe. It has two ancient shrines including Omkareshwar and Amarkareshwar. 

 

This holy place is located on the meeting point of Narmada and Kaveri River, making a must-visit pilgrimage destination for Lord Shiva devotees and leisure travellers alike. Set in the Khandwa district of Madhya Pradesh, Omkareshwar is forged by the sacred Narmada River. Built in the Nagara style.

 

Omkareshwar is adorned with lofty hills, between which the river Narmada forms a serene pool. Above this pool runs a cantilever type bridge which further enhances the scenic beauty of this island.

 

 Here the river passes through a narrow and deep gorge and in the process creates an island in the shape of the holy symbol ‘OM’. So technically it’s the island that’s called Omkareshwar, but just like the town, even its name has spilled over to both the banks.

 

The sacred and purifying Narmada meets the fast flowing Kaveri at the sangam, or confluence, of these two rivers. Located on the westernmost part of the island of Omkareshwar, this narrow projection of land at the meeting point of the streams is covered with stones of all sizes shaped like shivalingas. The Kaveri, actually is not another river, but a part of the Narmada itself that encircles the island on the north.

 

There are two bridges connecting the mainland part of the town with the island, but many tourists and pilgrims prefer to cross over by boats from Gomukh ghat. The boats moored on the Ghats carry a maximum of eight passengers and charge Rs 150 per head. You could also hire a boat to take you on a joyride on the Narmada. Do be careful. The steps of the ghat are extremely slippery and as the Narmada flows through a gorge here, it is extremely deep. Also, crocodiles are known to stray here from time to time.

Gomukh Ghat:

Our boat was moored at Gomukh ghat and almost near the steps leading to the temple. But the steps are very steep and the path is also very rough and uneven.Legend has it that, long ago, a demon went on a rampage killing sages and sadhus. The sadhus assembled at Omkareshwar and prayed to Shiva for protection. Moved by their prayers, Shiva fought the demon and killed him with his trishul (trident).

To purify the trishul stained with the blood of the demon, Shiva flung it towards the Narmada at Omkareshwar. The trishul landed a fair distance from the river and its impact gave rise to an underground stream that resurfaces to meet the Narmada at the Gomukh. The stream is referred to as Kapildhara and the ghat built around it called the Gomukh Ghat.

Luckily there is no rush while we visiting Gomukh to have a quick glimpse of a small Shiva Lingam. Which was very much worn out and seen at a low level over which water is falling from a pipe incessantly. There is a natural water spring near the shrine. Just behind Shiva Lingam there is a small idol of Parvati. We sprinkled holywater in our head and had Dharshan.There are shrines for five-faced Ganapati and Annapoorna.

 

Climbing up a series of stairs from Gomukh Ghat, and some more from the temple entrance again lined with small colourful shops. A series of steps from the ghats leads up to the mandapa of the temple, marking the entrance of the enclosure. The mandapa is decorated with heavily carved soapstone pillars with elaborate capitals in the form of yakshis, while niches on either side are occupied by images of Ganesh, Ram, Sita, and other deities. As one crosses the mandapa, one encounters Nandi, Shiva’s divine vehicle. From the first mandapa, one ascends to the recently built sabha mandapa or prayer hall.

 

A vast terrace above the sabha mandapa leads to a small door through which one can enter the upper levels of the shikhara. Inside are three shrines, one above the other, enshrining more manifestations of Shiva – Siddhanath, Kedareshwar and Guptanath. The front hall has many high pillars with Yaksha and Yakshini figures caved on. This temple was first built by Mandhata who did severe penance and Shiva appeared before him in the form of Jyothirlinga. In 11th century the Paramara kings re-built the temple and later the Holkar kings renovated it in Nagara style with five storeys depicting different gods at every level. At the base of the temple there is a cave called Govindapada Gufa where Sri Shankaracharya met his guru Sri Govindha Vallabha . As it was very crowded we had very little time to see the temple. 

 

To view the numerous surrounding temples and to have a holy dip at the confluence of Narmada and Kaveri Rivers, many pilgrims go around the island called Narmada Parikrama covering a distance of nearly 7 k.m.

 

 From the outside, the entire palace looks like a single structure, but upon entering it, one can see that it is actually a series of three large courtyards surrounded by rooms on two levels. We learnt this Mandhata Palace was built by Holkars and inside one can see the paintings and the painted Durbar Hall with three beautiful balconies from where one can have a fascinating view of Narmada with surrounding hills and temples on the slopes.

 

In addition to Lord Shiva, Lord Ganesha and Goddess Annapurna are also worshipped here in Omkareshwar.

 

The divine pebbles found here in Omkareshwar are called "Bana Lingams". Bana Lingam also called as the Svayambhu Linga is a smooth elliptical pebble found in the bed of the sacred Narmada River. These Lingams are self-manifest in nature and are not crafted or made by human hands.

This is why the Bana Lingams are also known as the Narmada Banalingas or Narmadeshwar Shiva Lingas

 

After Darshan of Lord,We came back by steps towards Omkar Ghat and the boatman ferried us to see Mamaleshwara Temple located on the south side of the Narmada River on mainland. Both Omkareshwar and Mamaleshswar are treat as two halves of one and same Jyothirlinga.  

 Mamleshwar Temple:

Built in the 10th century, the Mamleshwar Jyotirlinga Temple, also known as Amareshwar, is best known for its glorious history and rich architecture. A trip to Omkareshwar is incomplete without visiting this temple. You can visit the Mamleshwar temple by boat or on foot.

 

The temple is present on the opposite bank of the sacred Narmada River facing the Omkareshwar temple. You can touch Lord Shiva and perform Abhisekham by yourself in the Mamleshwar Jyotirling temple.

 

 Parthiva Linga Puja is very famous here in this temple. Mamaleshwar temple is not a big one. There is a hall and a sanctum. Lord Shiva is present in the center of sanctum. We can touch Mamaleshwar jyotirling and do Abhishekam to Shiva by ourselves. Idol of Parvati mata is present on the backside of Shivaling in the wall. There are many small temples of Lord Shiva around main temple of Mamaleswar.

 

A lovely old temple surrounded by some small old shrines devoted to different deities. Many devotees come here to do Parthiva Shiva Linga Pooja and Abhishekam. The verses of Shiva Mahimna are seen inscribed on the temple walls dating back to 1063 A.D.

 

Narmada glistening with two brightly illuminated suspension bridges spanning across it. One finds tranquility and serene beauty here with cool refreshing breezes here along with ancient temples.Really one loves to come here again and again and find true peace of mind and devotion.

Then in evening we proceed to Maheshwar.

"Tobe cont"

JaishreeIyer